The team spent days trekking into the attractive Jiwa Nala valley, which is part of the Great Himalayan National Park, and a further 4 days trekking out.  We left from Neuli in the south via the Kandi Galu pass and departed via Pulga in the north crossing the Phangchi Galu pass on route. Fifteen days were spent at or above a Base Camp in the valley near Ratichho Thach. Access to the Jiwa Nala valley was strenuous and difficult for animals, but all the porters managed extremely well, only having trouble descending the Phangchi Galu north side which was steep and snow covered when we crossed in late October. From our Base Camp at 3725m we explored the upper reaches of the valley, particularly the glaciated region at the valley head.  After establishing a high camp at the foot of the main glacier snout we were able to access the glacial plateau on the left (true right) of the dominant ice fall. This plateau is surrounded by a tremendous crenulated cirque of unexplored peaks rising to a little over 5500m. Members of the team climbed several of its high points.

Firstly we crossed the glacier towards the SE to climb a prominent point on the ridge at 5125m (N 31º51.626', E 77º35.464', Alpine PD) which we tentatively called Tribulation Point. From here we could see into the upper regions of the adjacent Sainj Valley. Another day we again climbed onto the glacial plateau, but this time continued up a steep couloir on the left to access a compact rocky summit that rose steeply from near our advance base camp.  This top, at 5140m (N 31º52.211', E 77º35.209', Alpine PD+), we tentatively called Sentinel Peak.  Although it did not rise very high above the upper glacial plateau it was an isolated top which which we reached via a final short snow traverse followed by a short, steep rock chimney.  Later we climbed the obvious peak directly across the upper glacier from Sentinel Peak by a mixed right to left slanting ramp line on its South Face.  This ended in a superb snow ridge leading to a small rocky summit at 5365m (N 31º52.560', E 77º35.059', Alpine AD) which we tentatively called Snow Leopard Peak because of the many snow leopard tracks that we saw on route.

A few days later we set up another high camp below the glacier south of the valley immediately to the west of a prominent triangular face; a major T-shaped feature of the upper valley.  From here we climbed the true right lateral moraine before crossing the glacier to climb to a small col beneath Garwari Tibba.  A sharp snow ridge then led SE to a prominent rock point at 4890m on which we all sat à cheval (N 31º50.262', E 77º33.495', Alpine PD). We tentatively called this Snowcock Point on account of the many birds of the same name that we saw just below the summit.  It gave excellent views over the Sainj Valley.

There is a lot to do in the Jiwa Nala Valley and we explored both the south and north sides from base camp.  These areas tend to be less interesting (to mountaineers) than the glaciated valley head. The steep northern side leads to an extensive boulder field (not a good place to be with no flat spots and no water) and the southern side leads up steep grassy slopes to extensive boulder and scree slopes.  The peaks to the north and south tend to be a mixture of rock and scree.

At higher levels we saw no evidence of previous visits (although the valley floor is popular with bird-watching trekkers) and having met both the GHNP Deputy Director and the local private mountaineering activist we believe that all of our exploration was new and that our climbs were all first ascents.  We saw plenty of evidence of the Himalayan Brown Bear (from spoor) and our porters actually saw one when they came to help us depart.  We also saw many foot prints of bears in the valley and of snow leopards on the upper glaciers.  Despite being a NP we saw few birds (a few snowcocks, lammergeiers and other raptors, redstarts and owls). We also saw several herds of wild goats and the occasional pica.

The expedition gratefully acknowledges the support of the Alpine Climbing
Fund.